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Fix'ed Yellow's TBE Hover Problem
Tags: Syma X9
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Freeonthree
Red Bluff, california
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February 6, 2012 - 5:24 pm
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Ok, I screwed up a little, but I fixed it. I loosened the blades, and retightened down to first resistance, and lubed the shaft bearings and drive gears. Now it hums quietly, and no more TBE hover, sweeeeeeeet !

Just lubed red too, he was getting kinda noisey too. Sure makes a difference.

I used "Slick 50 One Lube" spray, and just dribbled a drop down the shaft to the bearings and rotated the shaft, and did it inverted for the lower bearing where I had to let it run down the top of the gear to get it to the shaft, then rotated to get it in there. Boy these heli's sound smooth now  :>) 

Just test flew both heli's again, and both hover perfectly now, awesome !  Now to retighten the blades on yellow, like they were before...  nope, still perfect. 

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Freeonthree
Red Bluff, california
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February 6, 2012 - 5:54 pm
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Ok, now for my conclusion...

Yellow had a wee bit too much slop in the main shaft/bearings, and the oil took up some of the slack, and smoothed things out. If feels alot smoother in my hand now also.

I noticed on both heli's that some lubricant sneek out of the upper bearings and collected on top of the bearing housing and im sure the same goes for the bottom bearing.

Im going to start lubing my heli's bearing and gears once a week, or as soon as they start to get noisy like before.

My blade grips are back to gently snugged again, and apparantly the lubing did the trick. No more TBE Hover, this time...

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bvc
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February 6, 2012 - 6:03 pm
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bearings? Confused

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Freeonthree
Red Bluff, california
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February 6, 2012 - 6:18 pm
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I hope it has bearings in there. I'd hate to think the shafts are turning in plastic holes  Surprised

Im sure I red where someone said to be careful the bearings don't fall out when your working on them.

I'd be pulling them and packing them with vasoline or light grease, knowing what I think I know now  Wink

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Freeonthree
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February 6, 2012 - 6:43 pm
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Bear in mind, my TBE toilet bowl effect hover problem was slight. It would hover in a circular motion of about 3 inchs of diameter, and it seemed to come on rather quickly, along with a little excessive gear noise. Both heli's were starting to get kinda noisy actually. There both wisper quiet now.

Im gunna look around for some special plastic gear grease and bearing lube for these little flying models. 

As soon as I have the bearings out of one of these heli's, im going to measure them and look into some quality bearings from Boca Bearing for my baby's.  Anyone know if these are sealed or open bearings ?     

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Freeonthree
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February 6, 2012 - 7:06 pm
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Just spoke with Bernie. He said there are no bearings in there. He also said it was one long hole for the shaft.

OK, thats easy then, just lube from the top and let gravity do it thing.

I stuck my neck out using the lubericant I did, without reading the label first, I tend to do that sometimes, and I suggest anyone else use something made for models and these types of plastics. I'll be shopping for some now myself.

Life is great without 3 inch hovering circles  Laugh

Just flew yellow again, and sill no circular hovering, so I guess things were just binding a little, causing an oscillation in the blades perhaps. We need a gear and shaft grease called S107G Lube  Laugh  Sounds Technical eh...

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CPD
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February 6, 2012 - 11:58 pm
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Guess I should do that too then-my yellow has a slight tbe, and it might be that.

 

Needed to oil them up anyway.

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bobO
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February 7, 2012 - 1:38 am
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My first thought was white grease for the gears, but then I thought I don't want something that's going to attract dirt, lint etc. So until I get some model train oil, I'm using the graphite oil. Just hope it doesn't get on the mother board and muck things up.

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Supernova
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February 7, 2012 - 1:54 am
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Be very very careful if you think they need lubing and do it very sparingly PLEASE only with teflon grease.

Wink

It says, say something here --- so I have

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CPD
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February 7, 2012 - 1:56 am
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Graphite's good. Used to have a lot of that around from my pinewood derby days. I have a video I'm uploading right now on oiling with the train oil. It takes 3 minutes to oil the entire s107g, including me explaining the oil and stuff while I'm doing it. I also thought it'd be hard with the 102, but I just remembered after the vid about how it has the bottom open to the gears.

 

It's really simple-just put it on the gears between the teeth, move it a little, and keep doing that until they're all well covered. It evaporates after a month or so, but by then the helis would need it again anyway.

 

Uhp! Uploading done! feature=youtu.be

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CPD
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February 7, 2012 - 2:08 am
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Supernova said:

Be very very careful if you think they need lubing and do it very sparingly PLEASE only with teflon grease.

Wink

Real oil, I could understand- that takes a lot of the strength out of plastic, and attracts a lot of dirt. Grease sticks, but it also atracts dirt and makes a huge mess. What's nice with the train oil is the needle that puts the oil exactly where you need it, and you squeeze the bottle to exactly how much you want, and there is little excess. And, what excess there is, is designed not to interfere with electronics. When you get inside of the HO trains n stuff, it sprays out and stuff, right onto the electronics in there, and I've never heard of any problems with it and them.

 

The other thing is, when the oil evaporates, it leaves a residue. I have yet to decide if this is good, bad or indifferent, since it helps protect whatever it is from wear, but it does not lubricate, and I can't tell yet if it corrodes anything. Being that it's non-oil, and designed to not corrode stuff, I'm inclined to say it forms a protective barrier against wear and rust. (granted, on an alluminum alloy heli, rust isn't much of an issue)

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Supernova
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February 7, 2012 - 2:14 am
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Good video Laugh I think it will help, but we must be very careful not to put to much oil on them as when they take off you will get sprayed.

It says, say something here --- so I have

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CPD
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February 7, 2012 - 2:21 am
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That's why I was saying about needing to run at low speeds for a minute or two before flight. The oil needs worked in by hand for a few minutes, then needs ran at low speeds, then medium, then full. It works around, and coats everything. I wouldn't be too worried about the MB, but you might worry about getting sprayed. The one thing different is with trains, if it sprays, it sprays inside the shell (body) or onto the tracks. (the tracks is kinda a problem if it gets on the head of the rails)

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Old_Iron_Spine
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February 7, 2012 - 5:50 am
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My 108 sounds like a b-17 for a helicopter lol! Cause the gears are put in tight, so I had to use pliers to pull them out. When I did, I guess it flattened out the corner of a tooth, so I went to cut that flattened part off with nail clippers, and that didn't work. So I then had to file it down, and that worked a little bit, but not well enough. And now when that tooth hits, it makes a little clicking sound, lol. It concerns me, but it is somewhat humorous. It flies fine, it sounds a little choppy, and I think it messes with the turning a little bit, but that's pretty much it. The turning seems delayed.

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CPD
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February 7, 2012 - 7:07 am
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yeah, I think that's classic needing oil. My h107 sounded pretty bad, but spinning the blades by hand, it's almost silent.

 

Next up, after I pack for camping this weekend, will be oiling the 102, possably with a video for that, since it's different.

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Freeonthree
Red Bluff, california
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February 7, 2012 - 7:21 am
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I really like the train oil with the needle, and the fact it's non petroleum based makes it great around plastic.

I was beginning to wonder why I never saw a thread regarding lubrication. Lots of gears in there, and 2 shafts... 

The first thing I noticed after lubricating, was the smooth hum of the tiny machine, the sound of quality you might say.

Then the hand launch was very cool, I couldn't feel all that vibration anymore, smooooooooooooooooooooth....

Now I need to find a good non petroleum parts wash spray.  I know your out there somewhere...

What I found interesting, was the fact that my 3 inch TBE was not something bent, just a lack of lubrication.

I wonder if the model railroad industry has a nifty parts wash spray. Hmmm... 

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CPD
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February 7, 2012 - 7:37 am
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Sorry, not to my knowlege. The way you lubricate trains basically is, on gears, you use this type of oil, on worm screws, you use white grease, and plenty of it. You have to be very precise in where you put the oil, which is why the long needle. As far as cleaning, you use warm water and LIGHT soap, like a drop--not a short sqirt, a DROP-- of dawn or ivory flakes, and carefully wash, so you don't mess up the paint. The innders? Well, if they're dirty enough to need cleaned, it's mostly oil, and that's cleaned, at least how I prefer to do it, with a dry paper towl and lots of time.

 

That said, there is one recomendation out there to use WD40. It cleans the train, but ends up with the residue over the entire thing. It has its own problems, and I don't use it.

 

As for the smaller guages, they're a different creature-they do the same for the shell, but just lube the mechanics once in a while with the oil. The mechanics on those are usually self contained, so the only stuff to clean off would be if somebody used real oil or if it's old enough to arc and char the oil in it. (really it burns it, but that makes it sound like they're little firebombs when they're not)

 

So, really, you could use wd40, if you really wanted a wash spray, but it's not reccomended.

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Freeonthree
Red Bluff, california
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February 7, 2012 - 8:12 am
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I don't buy WD-40 anymore. I only use Zep and "Slick 50 One Lube" in my shop. Lube a grungy car door hinge with WD-40, and the grunge is back in a few hours. Slick 50 One Lube lasts for weeks.  It works so good, it's all I use on the shifter of my VW trike.  I love smoooooooooooooth...

For washing camera shutters, we used LPS, it cleans away any dirt, oil, etc... and evaporates complety and quickly, but im not sure if it's safe for these plastics yet.  I bet there a quality hobby parts cleaner out there for these.  

I remember Tower Hobby's selling a special wash spray for the elect and nitro cars and trucks. Safe and effective, but too expensive to use on the mud covered Traxxas Revo 4WD nitro truck.  I bet that would be great for these little jewells.

Probably make a can last a couple of years at least !  I think it was like 8 bucks then, but I decided to use the hose, a brush, and the air compressor to keep my Revo spotless and looking nice yet well beaten, and it was, daily  Surprised

10 more minutes of cool down and wisper quiet Yellow is ready for take off on runway 5. 

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Freeonthree
Red Bluff, california
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February 7, 2012 - 8:38 am
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Kinda spendy, but I found this set of stuff. I guess the track cleaner for other stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/produ.....B0006O24ZO

 

This looks very good and not too expensive

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330574.....038;_rdc=1

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CPD
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February 7, 2012 - 9:59 am
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DON'T EVER USE THE TRACK CLEANER ON HELIS!!!!!!!

 

The oil with that is probably petroleum based, and does not have the needle, and is just for a handfull of parts, the all purpose lubricant is the light litium white grease, which would be horrible on the heli, since it dries into a rock and is just all around the oposit of what you want, (trust me on that) and the track cleaner is (probably-I never use liquid track cleaner) just for metal, and would definitely never be good on this cheap plastic.

 

I'd say use this-http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005U34QIO/ref=as_li_tf_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=syma107heli-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B005U34QIO

 

That's what I have and that's what I recommend. Made in USA, and high quality. Also, much cheaper than ANYTHING on amazon-BY FAR.

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