Syma Forum

Im sad to report that Red is boxed up and headed for kentucky tomorrow.

Should have him replaced in a couple of week. Thats the good news  :>)

Blue should be here tomorrow or the next day  :>) 

Too bad I didn't have a spare board. I would have gladly used it on Red to save him, oh well…

Time to order a couple of spare boards, and keep em in stock. Live and learn…

I found some brownish, non petroleum based 100% silicone grease, and lubed the gears with that for a test, and it seems to stay on the gears real good. The color makes it easy to tell when the film is getting scarce. Seems real smooth, so we'll see how long it lasts. Can't wait to get the Liquid Gears stuff in my hot little hands   

Either way, the interesting thing is, my yellow's drift is worse, and now reversed, but the TBE, caused by the 6 visable bends in the main shaft, is now about gone.

It does one 1 1/4 inch circle, then moves foreward 6 inches half an inch to its right, then repeats. (Odd, isntit?)

The bad news is, I think my yellow needs to have one last flight, then be retired servicable. The motor's going in it. The lube job helped quiet it, but I can tell a burnt motor a mile away.

Your 2nd link was just for the bottle. The first link was for Liquid Bearings, the same stuff the guy was selling for the clocks, thats what we should get for our heli's In my opinion.  I love the needle !  The clock guy wants 2.85 shipping I believe, and the price was like the same, 6.99 or something...  Thats what im gunna buy and try now   

Quote:

and the track cleaner is (probably-I never use liquid track cleaner) just for metal, and would definately never be good on this cheap plastic.

I sure wasn't insinuating using the track cleaner on the heli's, now way. I only meant it could be good for something, maybe knife switches, cleaning metal tarnish, etc...  The clock lube I found on Ebay is gauranteed to be 100% synthetic, so it may be good, but the train grease and oil is made to be used around plastic.  I like that...  too expensive though...

Im getting the clock lube and giving that a try 

Just flew both heli's, and their still wisper quiet, very nice, and no Yellow TBE, awesome !

Kinda spendy, but I found this set of stuff. I guess the track cleaner for other stuff.

tag=syma107heli-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0006O24ZO

This looks very good and not too expensive

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330574.....038;_rdc=1

Sorry, not to my knowlege. The way you lubricate trains basically is, on gears, you use this type of oil, on worm screws, you use white grease, and plenty of it. You have to be very precise in where you put the oil, which is why the long needle. As far as cleaning, you use warm water and LIGHT soap, like a drop--not a short sqirt, a DROP-- of dawn or ivory flakes, and carefully wash, so you don't mess up the paint. The innders? Well, if they're dirty enough to need cleaned, it's mostly oil, and that's cleaned, at least how I prefer to do it, with a dry paper towl and lots of time.

That said, there is one recomendation out there to use WD40. It cleans the train, but ends up with the residue over the entire thing. It has its own problems, and I don't use it.

As for the smaller guages, they're a different creature-they do the same for the shell, but just lube the mechanics once in a while with the oil. The mechanics on those are usually self contained, so the only stuff to clean off would be if somebody used real oil or if it's old enough to arc and char the oil in it. (really it burns it, but that makes it sound like they're little firebombs when they're not)

So, really, you could use wd40, if you really wanted a wash spray, but it's not reccomended.

yeah, I think that's classic needing oil. My h107 sounded pretty bad, but spinning the blades by hand, it's almost silent.

Next up, after I pack for camping this weekend, will be oiling the 102, possably with a video for that, since it's different.

That's why I was saying about needing to run at low speeds for a minute or two before flight. The oil needs worked in by hand for a few minutes, then needs ran at low speeds, then medium, then full. It works around, and coats everything. I wouldn't be too worried about the MB, but you might worry about getting sprayed. The one thing different is with trains, if it sprays, it sprays inside the shell (body) or onto the tracks. (the tracks is kinda a problem if it gets on the head of the rails)

Supernova said:

Be very very careful if you think they need lubing and do it very sparingly PLEASE only with teflon grease.

Real oil, I could understand- that takes a lot of the strength out of plastic, and attracts a lot of dirt. Grease sticks, but it also atracts dirt and makes a huge mess. What's nice with the train oil is the needle that puts the oil exactly where you need it, and you squeeze the bottle to exactly how much you want, and there is little excess. And, what excess there is, is designed not to interfere with electronics. When you get inside of the HO trains n stuff, it sprays out and stuff, right onto the electronics in there, and I've never heard of any problems with it and them.

The other thing is, when the oil evaporates, it leaves a residue. I have yet to decide if this is good, bad or indifferent, since it helps protect whatever it is from wear, but it does not lubricate, and I can't tell yet if it corrodes anything. Being that it's non-oil, and designed to not corrode stuff, I'm inclined to say it forms a protective barrier against wear and rust. (granted, on an alluminum alloy heli, rust isn't much of an issue)

Be very very careful if you think they need lubing and do it very sparingly PLEASE only with teflon grease.