Syma Forum

Do I need to break out FPS Russia "flying" a "millitary quadrocopter with a machine gun" using "a special tablet" again? (when it was pretty obvious that it was just a quadrocopter with a camera on it, a fake machine gun and CGI explosion when it "self destructed")

That would be cool... I think Raptor was trying something with that or saying something about doing it. Would be cool, especially with the iCopter ones and an ipad or kindle.

Hmmm... the interesting thing there is that they actually took the time to make the camera remote controlled like they did... I'm sure that's got to add weight and some complexity to the thing...

Can I ask just how much video those things get from one card? My regular video camera gets about an hour off of a 4 gig card, but from the sounds of it, if you really need two 8-gig cards, there's something screwey, especially with the kind of quality you get with micro cameras... A 512 mb card's kinda stupid, I'll admit, (I didn't think they even made 512 cards anymore) but when you can just download the video to your computer while you charge from it, that's probably reasonable.

One thing I noticed from the video I watched (below) is that the flashing red/blue light is in the way of the camera, and really needs moved out of the bottom of the nose. Kinda ruins the video. 

Now that all said, I wouldn't mind if they had a s301C... that would be nice to have an outdoor heli with a camera...

And as allways, SF, thanks for the kind words--just tryin my best around here. Unfortunatly, it seems there's not as much for me to help with, most of everything's passing me by--all going to s800, s107C, quadrotors and electronics... not much meat left on the bone...

Thank you, Sir!

Having reviewed the 800g thread, there's one other item I can add, perhaps to your disappointment: the 107C shares its remote with the 800, albeit not allowing for any lateral movement on the throttle stick.

Having bent these big mitts of mine to fine detail work for my main hobby, plastic modeling, I find the trade fairly even - you lose the nice meaty gripping surface of the 107/107g remote, but you do gain the wider, more generous tips of the control sticks.  I may also have the advantage of relatively short exposure to the first remote before stepping up to the second.

YUUUP!!!! just about sums it up . i bought one from lightake about 2 months ago ,same sort of teething probs ,but now ok .it was a bit stiff setting it up and gingerly had to build it and suffered the same probs with the micro sd card ,so i checked it in a laptop and got nowhere, must be frazzled as it wouldn't even format, but two new 8 gig ones from Amazon and i was taking pics once more.

I had to get used to the "no return" lift control ,but soon had it mastered ,so good in fact it's now my main controller for my apache and my black hawk . on the subject of "creep" as mine does ,paperclips on the back vane till it stops then weigh them on micro scales then substitute them for something more aesthetic!! 

Oh, absolutely!  Mi photo, su photo. 

Only caveat I'd offer is to see how consistent your experience is with mine - not that I really think you need the reminder.

Well very cool then - glad I could contribute something new, and thanks for the welcome!

Based on what I've skimmed here and in other on-line reviews, I'll point out that while it works plenty well for a noob like me, there does seem to be a bit of forward weight bias and creep on the C, so those who want an absolutely static hover might pop the canopy and see about skootching the power cell back some.  Of course, I imagine that assembly tolerance stacks give each bird its own performance characteristics, so maybe other 107Cs are more neutral.

My copter came with the camera plug clipped in a little boss just under the chassis, with only about 5mm of cord showing.  I assumed that this was all the copter had at first, and I had a devil of a time plugging into the camera this way.  Turns out there was actually about 25mm of cord tucked under the canopy, which made things much easier - although I still found a pair of tweezers helpful getting the plug into the camera. IIrc, the plug has a solid end with a faint rib going down the center and an open end with leads showing on the opposite side ; the solid end should face toward the front as you put it in.  This pic's a bit out of focus (best I can do w/crackberry), but it still might clarify that some:

The other thing you'll see is that clipping in the camera butts the camera plug wires right against the chassis plate, which is one of the reasons I was a little reluctant to yank the camera in and out too many times.  You don't have to route the plug wires over the skid like that, by the way - it just seemed to make sense to me.

Because of the tightness of that plug against the bottom of the aircraft, you might expect the camera to be a bit stiff to snap in place.  I found that guiding the camera in by the front tab first, then working the rear tab up, seems to be the best method.