Syma Forum

Everything goes well with our new S107. More than well I should say: our former one was probably defective from the beginning, so we had never experienced the magnificent capabilities of the heli. Now we're delighted .

The Syma rarely leaves my desk (except for flying of course), always charging from the USB port of my iMac, or cooling dawn before recharging, or just flying to the opposite table through our office. That gives me and my colleges five minutes break every two hours or so, and time for laughs and gambles ('I bet you can't land on top of this folder...' and so on). They are not so kind on RC toys as I am, so my S107 will probably be the only to populate our common room, but clients often see it and make comments and, who knows, perhaps we're starting an aero-club around here!

Thanks for verifying my opinion of a bad circuit board.  One of my other hobbies is amateur radio.  Have built lots of circuit boards for projects with very small components.  A bad solder joint can do the whole project in.  Also, have bought equipment and had problems and use a high power magnifying glass to look for poor soldering.

I would like to look at mine, but don't know what is involved in getting the board out.  Can you remove it from the bottom?  Maybe someone out there can address this, as I'm game to look at the board.  Of course, there could be a bad component or IC chip.  Would be nice to have a schematic and the theory of operation on the gyro.

My good working blue helicopter I can hold in my hand and rev it up until I see a stationary pattern on the bottom blade.  Holding it in front of my face I can see a change in this pattern whenever I turn the bird suddenly to the left or right, indicating to me the gyro is doing its  job.  On the yellow spinning bird there seems to be no change.  The green light takes all of 15 seconds to quit blinking.  Conclusion; the gyro is just not working.  Has anyone else tried this procedure?

If it is not too hard to remove the board I would be game to taking a close look at it.  Would be no way to test it, as I assume whoever makes them do not want to include that information or trouble shooting procedure.  If someone can tell me how to remove the board I would like to look at it and maybe heat up a couple of solder joints if they look suspicious.  I have a very small soldering iron just made for boards of this size.  Anyone else out there into checking the boards out?

Thanks to all of your comments.

Bill (wricharz)

Thinking over the whole thing again we've come to a slight different conclusion than Wricharz's: the electronics is not exactly the problem, but maybe just a symptom. Perhaps we have so little differences on the loads applied to each of the two main blades that we don't notice them, buy the gyroscope does, and in order to avoid the spinning it reaches its maximum allowance limits constantly correcting it. Therefore, when we demand a turn to left or right from the control, the gyro circuit may not have extra margin to give it safely (it has a program running into its chip, numerically based I presume, with numeric limits and so) and reaches some overflow error that causes unexpected behaviour of the gyro and, why not, a software error flag activation. This flag could be the cause of the flashing green led at startup, probably indicating a gyro error.

But this is too much guessing and we're not sure about anything. Only that this explanation sounded sensible for us, and we liked to share it. We came to it observing that, when cutting off throttle, the lower main blade stoped several seconds before the upper one. That implies a different torque is constantly needed to maintain both blades turning synchronized (which the gyro automatically should accomplish as this is a condition of non-spinning fly). So an unbalance exists and perhaps an out-of-limits error is occurring. 

So we come to one of the issues we think we all S107 users are suffering from: the lack of a GOOD heli manufacturer's manual pointing out all the details, including green led flashing behaviour.

Thanks Syma Freak for your info. We'll search trough it.

I'm the original post here on the spinning 107.  I have had all of the same problems that you guys have, with the green light and all.  My conclusion that it is the electronics, gyro, etc.  Not a mechanical thing.  I did the battery drain also.  Too much trouble to replace a circuit board, so will keep my yellow spinning one for parts  and maybe get another one if my

blue 107 fails.  This is so much fun flying these birds, but not good if the circuit board goes bad.  I will report anything that gets mine working again.  Will probably take apart the whole bird and see what makes it tic and see how much trouble it is to replace the board.  Thanks for all the posts.

Bill

We are suffering from the very same problem: too much sensitive left/right control. More over: connection between control and heli takes more than 3 minutes of flashing green led until it becomes solid green. What does it mean? Is there a good manual on the behaviour of that green led?

We're trying to exhaust the heli battery to force a reset of its electronics and we'll recharge again...

I'll post the improvements (if any...)