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JamDJ said
Ahh, yes. The bug has bitten. Buying more toys forour toys! Next will be a soldiering iron!
You can pull your hair out choosing replacement
batteries. I just stick with the originals. After
your collection of helis grow, flight time becomes
less important because you'll want to land and
fly another. The 107 is perfectly balanced with
the stock battery, they're inexpensive, easy
to install, and you are most likely to get a genuine
Syma product.
A multimeter is a very handy tool (Even around the house
.)
I can relate
. I have 4 G's and 1 N flying
; 1 modified N grounded (too much "FFF"
); needs Main Shaft Connector
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Ahh, yes. The bug has bitten. Buying more toys for
our toys! Next will be a soldiering iron!
You can pull your hair out choosing replacement
batteries. I just stick with the originals. After
your collection of helis grow, flight time becomes
less important because you'll want to land and
fly another. The 107 is perfectly balanced with
the stock battery, they're inexpensive, easy
to install, and you are most likely to get a genuine
Syma product.
Offline
G 1 said
I dont have a multimeter but I think I should buy a new battery. Could I possibly buy a more powerful one? Or does it have to be the same?
Found a cheap multimeter for $6 on Hobbyking, i have one,does the job
"Fly like a butterfly sting like a Syma" http://syma107.com
There are many, many discussions as to the cost-benefit of installing a stock 3.7V 150mAh or similar battery versus a bigger XXXmAh battery all over the internet for a variety of RC aircraft. Larger capacity batteries may give slightly longer flight times, but they are heavier which throws off COG and puts extra strain on the motors, etc. I use the stock 150mAh batteries, but that's just my choice. I also have 4 S107G's (3 flying) and 2 S107N's so I have plenty of flight time if/when I choose to fly.
I dont have a multimeter but I think I should buy a new battery. Could I possibly buy a more powerful one? Or does it have to be the same?
"The battery does look a bit bloated." I agree. Do you have a multimeter? A battery is at full charge at 4.2V. A battery is considered "drained" at 3.7V. One of my failed batteries really did not look as bloated as yours. It would only charge to 4.05V and would drain down to 3.52V after 5 minutes of operation. I had another battery drain down to 3.71V after 2 minutes of operation. These LiPo batteries are quite finicky; almost like a living entity. They really need to be taken care of. I run a 5 minute flight, 20 minute rest/cool down, 45 - 55 minute charge (or more), 10 minute rest/cool down, 5 minute flight routine. I limit my flights to 5 minutes.
OK guys, I've taken some pics of the heli and the battery. This was straight after I flew it for a few seconds. It did the same thing again, flew well for a few seconds then hovered on the ground. The battery does look a bit bloated. Please advise me.
http://postimage.org/image/k3qlptqyr/
http://postimage.org/image/ejipsxhhf/
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JamDJ said
It's no inconvenience at all. This is why we are all here and keeping tthis forumgoing, to help each other, new hobbiests, and to have fun!
Thanks guys for your input..not much more to say..Just thanks from all the members
"Fly like a butterfly sting like a Syma" http://syma107.com
jbrumberg said
We are all in "this" together.
Do I sense Red Green?
--Keep your stick on the ice, we're all in this together!
... and membership provides a whole new world information that will provide "justification" to purchase all kinds of geeky stuff like multimeters, soldering stations, etc.
and/or make and break stuff
and hoard stuff
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It's no inconvenience at all. This is why we are all here and keeping tthis forum
going, to help each other, new hobbiests, and to have fun!
There should be no inconvience in the pursuit and sharing of knowledge. To teach is to learn. We are all in "this" together.
Thanks so much for the replies. I will look at the heli in more detail. When it flies it does not experience TBE. I have had issues connecting the charger to the heli but it does fit comfortably now.
Sorry for the inconvenience.
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G1, When it does fly, does it get the TBE?
(toilet bowl effect for those unfamiliar with our crazy
acronyms) Process of elimination: if
so, we'll look at a motor, if not and it flies well
if only for a few seconds, we'll look at battery replacement.
Don't panic, neither one is difficult.
Agrivating as typing this on a cell-phone ,
but. not difficult.
That means either A, the heli isn't shut off while charging, B the connection between the charger and the heli's charge port isn't good, C The battery isn't good, D there's a broken connection between the charge port and battery somewhere, or E the charger is bad.
Look it over, see if you can spot any noticable problems, i.e. broke wires, bent pins in the charge port, bloated battery, charger not connecting right, etc. and then try to narrow it down. I don't personally have anywhere I can recomend for batteries, seeing as I have yet to personally have to replace one, but SN, SF, Jam or Zed should know of somewhere between all of them.
I am referring to the light on the USB charger that goes red when the battery is meant to be fully charged. This light is always on. If you believe it is the battery I will have to get a new one. Does anyone know of a cheap one?
G1- I am confused as to the light(s) to which you are referring.
The last battery I replaced did not look bloated/puffy at all and appeared to "charge up" like the others (the USB LED would light up), but my multimeter indicated that this battery could not charge up to its full capacity (4.05V vs 4.2V), hold its charge, and rapidly depleted after 1 minute of flight to 3.52V. I believe a "drained" battery is considered to be 3.7V.
If the light's remaining on while charging, you don't have it shut off. Could be something not charging the battery, but it might just be a blown out battery. Open up the hood, (i.e. take off the canopy) and look at the battery. If it looks bloated, it's probably dead.
Have to give them at least a 15 minute cooldown time between flights, charges and 2nd flights.
OK thanks for the advice. But if the rotor is in fact broken surely the copter should be able to charge. The light remains on even though when I fly it it doesn't work well. Also when I fly it immediately it is able to gain height for a few seconds then gradually falls down.
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