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Titanium? Good idea or bad? easier than carbon fiber?
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ace1984
shelton, wa
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January 23, 2012 - 2:06 pm
Member Since: January 23, 2012
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So what do you guys think it's lighter at same thickness theoretically you could drop your frame and tail boom material thickness by about 45% and still be just as strong as the original and your weight would drop tremendously

Cool

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CPD
PA
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January 23, 2012 - 2:28 pm
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but, titanium is one of the most expensive metals out there. Just a little under platnum, I think.

 

If you wanted lots of strength, but low cost, get fairly thick (like .03mm thickness) styrene plastic and use that. It's a little flimsey, but you could use testors model cement to llaminate a few sheets and get high strength and low weight, at a low cost. (I buy my styrene from hobbylinc, http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/p.....it's about a buck a sheet for the .040 mm which isn't bad, or .030 mm is $3.50 for 5 sheets http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/p.....--I'd go with the .030)

 

If you bought anything from hobylinc, I'd buy a lot more to go along with it- they have great prices and are great to deal with.

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ace1984
shelton, wa
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January 23, 2012 - 2:52 pm
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thnx i was wondering about that $70 for 12"x 12" sheet @ .028" thick Frown

okay what about if you used the carbon fiber polymer with a different base material would give you strength without the cost of carbon fiber like bondo mesh

i'll chk out the polystyrene first though thanks

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CPD
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January 24, 2012 - 12:30 am
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I've been wondering that myself.

 

The carbon fibre doesn't actually do anything, the same as Kevlar doesn't do anything. It's just the different resins that they use that do the brute work.

 

In theory, you should be able to take a specific resin, any old nylon cloth, cut the nylon into shape, and laminate it.

 

The problems with laminated fabric is drilling the holes. My dad does that on military helmets, and while he can't say everything about it, basically, you have to do it exactly the right speed, with a drill that is sharp, but not too sharp, with the exact right pressure, and so on. (their specs call for not a single thread peeking up from the edges) I have no idea what those are to do it, but you're liable to screw up 500 of them before getting it right enough to only screw up 50 more before getting it good enough for the 1 that you want to use. (and I'm not exaggerating those no.s)

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