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MyronW said:
Got my new S107 today, and it's genuine. My first copter bound to the new controller, and took right off. Perfect. The new one flies great, too.
A side-by-side comparison of the two sets shows a lot of subtle differences. The reversed polarity is not subtle, though.
We bought our daughter one for her birthday tomorrow, and it's fake, too! That's two fakes and one real, all from Amazon.
Fakes, ain't cool. Don't tell the daughter, ha,ha!. She can fly yours when it stops.
Happy birthday to your daughter.. buddy. Happy Flying.
Got my new S107 today, and it's genuine. My first copter bound to the new controller, and took right off. Perfect. The new one flies great, too.
A side-by-side comparison of the two sets shows a lot of subtle differences. The reversed polarity is not subtle, though.
We bought our daughter one for her birthday tomorrow, and it's fake, too! That's two fakes and one real, all from Amazon.
Well, I figured it out. Not that I'm flying again, though.
It turns out that my heli is a fake. Green and pink motor tops, an orange LED on the board, and the red LED on the transmitter should be green.
When I changed out the motors, the polarity was reversed. When I swapped motor positions, the gyro was trying to do its thing, but with the polarity reversed, the signals caused the oscillation that I described.
Once I put a genuine board in, it was no longer compatible with the bogus controller, so it won't bind. Hence the complete lack of response. I ordered another copter today and I'll see if the controller works, assuming I get the real McCoy this time.
It is also not compatible with the chargers, either the USB cord or the controller cable.
I may end up swapping the boards back and figuring out the proper motor polarity so that the old controller works. At least there won't be an interference problem between the helis, so both can be in the air at the same time.
If the new one is fake, it goes back to Amazon, along with a not very nice letter to them and cc: to Syma. 
There must be a difference in motors and the effects it has on the moutherboard gyro etc. My 105 & 107 both have motors with different tops on. The front motor has blue/red wires and a white top on motor. The Rear motor has black/white wires and a black top on motor.
Hope this helps.
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True always consider what you spend on parts-now have a lot of Syma helis for spares-consider $30 for a new Syma or at least $20 to repair,always worth a go,that is how one learns.This is a hobby that will never go away,one needs to learn repairing at a cheap cost-when soldering small wires try this trick
I get a coke aluminum can and cut to size required and put below wires to solder say to not mess up Mother board-keeps heat away.Learn t that lesson when soldering speed controller to motor on a foam plane,melted the foam big time- The mother of invention is to think out side the square-Take care SF
"Fly like a butterfly sting like a Syma" http://syma107.com
I'm working through the exact same problem. My little bird had a top rotor failure in flight, which made for an interesting crash. I ordered both motors even though only the rear one was dead and changed them according to the wire colors, and both rotors spun backwards. I swapped the motor positions, and they turned in the right direction, but now the 'copter had the same spin problem you described, plus now the controls were reversed. If I held it and spun up the rotors it would oscillate in yaw.
The local RC hobby shop sells other brands, but not Syma, and he told me that he thought the board was fried, so I ordered and installed a new R5 board . The original board appears to be an R3. Now it lights up, but that's all. It won't charge from the USB cord, and the controller has a red LED on top. ( I haven't found any reference to the proper color LED, so that's got me puzzled.)
I have a nice soldering station and lots of experience, so I am confident that my connections are OK, but who knows? I could have accidentally roasted the gyro or another component as I fought with it. You are right- these tiny wires and soldering pads make it a difficult job!
So, I either cut my losses and just buy another bird, or I continue to struggle with this one. I'm leaning towards buying another and using this one for parts, since I've spent nearly the cost of a new 'copter on parts for the first!
Myron
I love my Syma 107 but what a maintenance hog it has been. I'm a fixer so I've been hrough a few repairs. I repaired the sheared pins on the upper rotor mount with small metal posts and she flew almost normally with only a little oscillation. I wasn't aware of the battery overcharge situation and my flight time took a dump so I installed the 200 mah battery upgrade and flew for @ 15 minutes at a time. Loved it!.... Three flights later the tail fin hooked on the carpet and she flipped on takeoff. The top came off of the rear motor. After looking for parts I deduced that this is the "A" motor. It runs the top rotors and sits to the rear of the shaft.
I ordered a new motor from Syma (they deliver very quickly, much faster than Amazon) I got the motor today and it appeared to be the "B" motor. It had blue and red wires instead of the white and black wires. I checked the envoice and it said it was an "A" motor, so I installed it. Had polarity reversed on first try but after reversing the leads the rotors turned strongly in the correct direction. BUT now the gyroscope does not seem to work at all. She'll spin randomly one direction or the other depending on which rotation gets the natural gyroscopic action.
Does anyone know if there is indeed a difference in the motors in regard to the gyroscope and I need to try again at buying a motor. Is the rear mounted motor driving the upper rotors the "A" motor, in which case they sent the wrong one? Or might I have done something to the gyro while making the repair. Those tiny wire and solder points can be a bitch.
Thanks
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