Syma Forum

Actually, the point of that was originally the heli was going to be completly stripped down to put into a model of a UH-1 huey. Unfortunatly, it's not powerful enough to fly the kinda heavy fuselage of either a 1:48 UH-1H (which turned out to be a metal model >:( ) or a plastic 1:48 UH-1B (which wasn't the huey I wanted to fly anyway)

I think if you get a 1:72 model, it could lift that, but not a 1:48. (Unfortunatly, I wanted a 1:48 because that would match up with my O-scale model trains)

As far as the shafts dropping, they fell a little, but it looks like they're meant to do it to a certain extent. You have to remember that actually, the issue isn't them dropping, it's them loosing their grip and the blades flying off. They pull upward very hard, you know!  

I don't know about the gyro, but it had so much lift, even at a slight idle, and was off-balance enough, that the rear was heavy enough to let it just flip over and hit my hand. You need to keep some weight on the front for it to not simply flip over. I thought, "Hey, why not just try to fly it once and see how fast it can fly beign that light?" Obviously, it didn't work. Just a fuel (or in this case battery) to noise converter.

And for anybody thinking the heli was harmed, that's my speed-107 now, with plastic lower frames, no rear stabalizing bars, and the "fake" heli's spare rear blade. (The fakes have a better pitch and size rear prop, but not as big as my speed rotors had, since they made it go too fast to control.)

LOL, OK

How did you stop the central drive shaft from dropping down, and removing some teeth off the cogs? (actually I think I removed the sleeve from mine... oops)

Essentially that's as naked I would like to get the copters, and attach then to the central control box with the tail boom.

(oh, the main reason why it doesn't fly, is because its Gryo is on the wrong axis and "wobbles", so it is unable to correct the rotation properly. i.e. the feedback loop is wrong)

The other thing is that if you take off all of the metal from the heli, you have to do something about the motors poping out...

When you take off the sides, the motors can tend to pop out like in my video. Also, they kinda need to have some weight on them to keep them from flying too high or flipping over. Also, if you use the tail booms, they're much, much stronger for their weight than anything else you could put on the heli.

What I would do would be take the tailboom from the s107's, and run the wires to the motors inside of them. Then I would build a basswood (not balsa-balsa's too fragile) box for the electronics, with four holes in the sides of the box, Dollhouse or other small woodworking hinges on one side of the lid and a dollhouse locking mechanism. I would then take the four tailbooms without the black plastic end on them, put them through the four holes and then put the black plastic end back on and hot glue in place. Then run the wires through and put wire connectors on them somehow so you can disconnect them, unscrew the tailboom and remove the motor set when you need to do repairs or want to swap out motors.

Once you've got it down to where it works good, I would then look around for metal modeling supplies (like http://www.hobbylinc.com/hobby....._wire_rods --you can also try the hardware store) and make a sheet metal version, using angle-"iron" on the edges of the box, gluing it all together with crazy glu or sheet metal screws. (prefered for longer life) When you bend the corners, just remember to cut counter 45 degree cuts where you are bending it and file all of the non-factory edges and coat with something (or just paint it all) to reduce the probability of getting cut.

I would use the metal one if you plan on needing it to last a long time, but the wooden one would be a lot cheaper and easier. Just my model builder recomendation.

 Correction: this design could be obtained quite easily by just BUYING a pre-made control circuit :facepalm: and then I don't need to design or program that part 😛

I can also design/make some really cheap, lightweight speed controllers using my PIC chips, and a few power MOSFETS.

Here's a very rough mockup, of what i think would be needed to make a suitable speed controller. (adapted from one of the designs I use on my boats)

Hay Raptor you are one smart cookie, the sort of man we need here 

IJR, the S107s would have to be non-gyro, or they will each try to correct themselves individually on the yaw axis.

Amazing stuff^

How do you embed Youtube videos?

An s107, stripped to the bone, can prodiuce a pretty good ammount of lift. Four of them together could probably lift a quadrocopter. The only thing is that they can't lift more than a little bit of weight alone. They can lift just about the weight of their bodies plus a pen or something. The thing with a quadrocopter is that you would need a much larger battery, but would need less body and relativly less motherboard, since the weight of a slightly larger MB would be distributed to all four sets of rotors. The trouble would be finding the 4 s107's with good motors and rotor sets but broken other parts to make it cost efficient, and finding a motherboard for the quadrocopter. That would be probably $20-50, I think, and the four s107's would cost $80-100 if you bought all brand new ones. It's really only something for SF to try, since he has the boxes upon boxes of broken down s107's.