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spinning 107
Tags: Syma X9
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wricharz
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October 3, 2011 - 3:07 pm
Member Since: September 16, 2011
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Flew the 107 into some curtains.  Examined it and nothing appears broken, bent and the gears all look good.  When I took it off it wants to spin.  I can fine tune it with the knob, but the yaw (left/right) is so sensitive that you can't fly it.  Have another 107 and it flies okay, no problems.

 

Feels like the speed control that controls the bottom rotor may be the problem.  I think the bottom rotor controls the yaw.  Is that right?  I don't see anyway of repairing it, unless someone has suggestions.

 

Thanks, Bill

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Syma Freak
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October 8, 2011 - 4:46 pm
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@wricharz check main shaft might be bent and tighten all rotor screws-let us know

"Fly like a butterfly sting like a Syma" http://syma107.com

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Norber
Spain
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October 10, 2011 - 8:04 am
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We are suffering from the very same problem: too much sensitive left/right control. More over: connection between control and heli takes more than 3 minutes of flashing green led until it becomes solid green. What does it mean? Is there a good manual on the behaviour of that green led?

We're trying to exhaust the heli battery to force a reset of its electronics and we'll recharge again...

I'll post the improvements (if any...)

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Norber
Spain
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October 10, 2011 - 8:47 am
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It's us again: bad idea reseting the heli. The batteries went off after some 8 hours of letting the flashing leds on, and after a 60 min full USB recharge the Syma s107 won't even connect to the control!!

The heli was adquired from a local dealer on 6 october, and was flying flawless until this very morning (9 october). No hard crashes, no sunglight exposure, maximum USB recharge times up to 30 min... The gears don't seem to be damaged either, every screw has been checked, as well as the concentric shafts, blade fixations and everything else.

The problems started this morning when the unit apparently lost connection with control during indoor flight and fell down unexpectedly several times from heights no bigger than 1,2 m. Afterwards we had to wait more than 3 minutes every time to get a solid green light from the internal led, which kept flashing from turn-on. It eventually went solid, and then we got the spinning problem described in this post.

Now the green led has been flashing for 15 min. and we don't have connection with the control which, by the way, has always been turned on, channel A selected, just in front of the heli on the same table...

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wricharz
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October 10, 2011 - 2:58 pm
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I'm the original post here on the spinning 107.  I have had all of the same problems that you guys have, with the green light and all.  My conclusion that it is the electronics, gyro, etc.  Not a mechanical thing.  I did the battery drain also.  Too much trouble to replace a circuit board, so will keep my yellow spinning one for parts  and maybe get another one if my

blue 107 fails.  This is so much fun flying these birds, but not good if the circuit board goes bad.  I will report anything that gets mine working again.  Will probably take apart the whole bird and see what makes it tic and see how much trouble it is to replace the board.  Thanks for all the posts.

 

Bill

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Syma Freak
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October 10, 2011 - 4:57 pm
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Guys-great post from you all-TBA is a factor to look at-main shaft and the top bar can can damaged with a crash-Don Draper look at comments explains things well-here scroll down as I say often the Syma hates any digital interference and draughts,not saying that is the problem.

The board is fairly tuff,however the solder joints can snap off with a bad crash-take of canopy to start with and inspect wires soldered ok-you see I fly helis and planes,planes have speed controllers that can overheat,same as heli boards,try some contact electronic spray,not to much-again just look at heli and see if anything bent-hold heli throttle up,watch rotors and listen for odd noises-we all will help as love our Syma helis

"Fly like a butterfly sting like a Syma" http://syma107.com

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Norber
Spain
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October 10, 2011 - 6:22 pm
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Thinking over the whole thing again we've come to a slight different conclusion than Wricharz's: the electronics is not exactly the problem, but maybe just a symptom. Perhaps we have so little differences on the loads applied to each of the two main blades that we don't notice them, buy the gyroscope does, and in order to avoid the spinning it reaches its maximum allowance limits constantly correcting it. Therefore, when we demand a turn to left or right from the control, the gyro circuit may not have extra margin to give it safely (it has a program running into its chip, numerically based I presume, with numeric limits and so) and reaches some overflow error that causes unexpected behaviour of the gyro and, why not, a software error flag activation. This flag could be the cause of the flashing green led at startup, probably indicating a gyro error.

But this is too much guessing and we're not sure about anything. Only that this explanation sounded sensible for us, and we liked to share it. We came to it observing that, when cutting off throttle, the lower main blade stoped several seconds before the upper one. That implies a different torque is constantly needed to maintain both blades turning synchronized (which the gyro automatically should accomplish as this is a condition of non-spinning fly). So an unbalance exists and perhaps an out-of-limits error is occurring. 

So we come to one of the issues we think we all S107 users are suffering from: the lack of a GOOD heli manufacturer's manual pointing out all the details, including green led flashing behaviour.

Thanks Syma Freak for your info. We'll search trough it.

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Syma Freak
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October 10, 2011 - 7:26 pm
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@Wricharz & Norber I am impressed with your ideas-Having been mad on any rc product whether tanks,planes or helis,it is hard to rely on product manuals,to explain.one can buy a spec plane nearly ready to fly,one just needs a remote and battery.Further down the track one starts to understand what a speed controller does and the importance of the correct propeller-back to the Syma-it is crucial to understand what a Coaxial heli does and also turbulance

The receiver board is of great importance-for instance you could buy a syma without a remote and bind to an old remote-here starts a problem-if the heli is not genuine it will not bind to old remote-What I see happening in the market if planes or helis there are some low life out there that try to copy-same as computers-

Most of problems I find is that one has a crash-seems not bad,however the vibration to the pcb board is fairly heavy-even a dogs hair lying across solder joints cause a problem-imangine your computer could fly and you crashed it-how would it go then,I feel just sometimes we expect so much from this small mother board on the Syma-

The learning curve is to understand how and why they fly-how many people know when they turn on the ignition to start a car really what happens?

I have taken on board what you guys have posted and will try to organize some info-maybe you might like to email me your views and can set up a post-the whole point of my blog is to help us all enjoy the Syma 107 and as I know progress bigger in this hobby of rc helis,or planes

Thank you SF

"Fly like a butterfly sting like a Syma" http://syma107.com

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Syma Freak
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October 10, 2011 - 7:35 pm
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Maybe I got away from the main point of your posts,so feel free to post or email me-the most important thing is to help, especially beginners out there not to get ripped off and disillusioned by the whole hobby.

Your input is really well received by all -again thank you-SF

"Fly like a butterfly sting like a Syma" http://syma107.com

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Norber
Spain
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October 11, 2011 - 5:29 am
Member Since: October 10, 2011
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Hello again:

We've gone to our local reseller and explained everything to them. Very nice guys (Model City - Salamanca, Spain): they just took our former S107 and gave us a brand-new one, and tested it. Perfect.

We then realized that binding the heli to its control takes some 5 to 10 seconds of flashing green led until it becomes solid green, and longer times (up to 15 minutes in our experience) mean electronic failure.

We've also verified that new helis offer a great difference in freedom to turn their two main blades, being the lower much more difficult to spin than the upper one. So the effect we had observed on our former heli (that the lower blade stopped turning several seconds before the upper blade when cutting off throttle) is perfectly normal, and is not supposed to cause a malfunction of the electronic gyroscope.

Moreover, if we add the enormous delay in establishing the binding between heli and control, plus the crazy spinning problem due to the exaggerate sensitivity of the left/right turn joystick, we get to the conclusion that the electronic board has a failure and needs replacement. The flashing of the green led at startup probably just denotes a bad connection (some faulty welding somewhere on the printed circuit board) which is detected from the beginning by the microprocessor mounted on the board. In our case, after some time of little electric current circulating trough that weak welding, it becomes hotter and eventually improves its electrical contact, causing the malfunction temporarily disappear. I believe this could be translated to English as a "cold welding" (soldadura fría in Spanish), and is mainly due to a manufacture problem.

I'll post further problems with our new helicopter (if any!). Otherwise you may suppose everything is fine.

Bye. Adiós.

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wricharz
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October 11, 2011 - 3:32 pm
Member Since: September 16, 2011
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Thanks for verifying my opinion of a bad circuit board.  One of my other hobbies is amateur radio.  Have built lots of circuit boards for projects with very small components.  A bad solder joint can do the whole project in.  Also, have bought equipment and had problems and use a high power magnifying glass to look for poor soldering.

I would like to look at mine, but don't know what is involved in getting the board out.  Can you remove it from the bottom?  Maybe someone out there can address this, as I'm game to look at the board.  Of course, there could be a bad component or IC chip.  Would be nice to have a schematic and the theory of operation on the gyro.

 

My good working blue helicopter I can hold in my hand and rev it up until I see a stationary pattern on the bottom blade.  Holding it in front of my face I can see a change in this pattern whenever I turn the bird suddenly to the left or right, indicating to me the gyro is doing its  job.  On the yellow spinning bird there seems to be no change.  The green light takes all of 15 seconds to quit blinking.  Conclusion; the gyro is just not working.  Has anyone else tried this procedure?

 

If it is not too hard to remove the board I would be game to taking a close look at it.  Would be no way to test it, as I assume whoever makes them do not want to include that information or trouble shooting procedure.  If someone can tell me how to remove the board I would like to look at it and maybe heat up a couple of solder joints if they look suspicious.  I have a very small soldering iron just made for boards of this size.  Anyone else out there into checking the boards out?

Thanks to all of your comments.

 

Bill (wricharz)

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Syma Freak
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October 11, 2011 - 7:18 pm
Member Since: November 26, 2010
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Great feed back guys-To get to the board is tricky but more of a  fiddle than anything-here is a link to a video on you tube -music a pain

The main thing to do is to say have a white towl or cloth to catch the small screws and put each section into little plastic bags and write down the sequence,as if you do not do that you will forget how to put back.

In my opinion the heli has to be put together by human hand,so as you can imagine some solder joints could be dodgy,hence a crash can bring them un done,this happens a lot with all helis and planes bought,reason to say planes is I have heaps of those as well,often the servos screw up especially if they have plastic gears,

You need a small soldering iron and really just a touch when soldering on main board,have played around with a lot of boards,the first one to touch feels a little daunting,however practice and no fear helps.

Here is another site by Killbucket he has some great photos of strip down of the Syma,keep going to next page.

@Norber your comments are great-so glad you were able to replace-some times the local model shops are gold,they will then get more business from you,here in Australia they are good but just try to make a bit to much profit when you can get sent products from China a lot cheaper-guess they have higher overheads-talk soon SF

"Fly like a butterfly sting like a Syma" http://syma107.com

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Norber
Spain
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October 13, 2011 - 3:16 am
Member Since: October 10, 2011
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Everything goes well with our new S107. More than well I should say: our former one was probably defective from the beginning, so we had never experienced the magnificent capabilities of the heli. Now we're delighted Laugh.

 

The Syma rarely leaves my desk (except for flying of course), always charging from the USB port of my iMac, or cooling dawn before recharging, or just flying to the opposite table through our office. That gives me and my colleges five minutes break every two hours or so, and time for laughs and gambles ('I bet you can't land on top of this folder...' and so on). They are not so kind on RC toys as I am, so my S107 will probably be the only to populate our common room, but clients often see it and make comments and, who knows, perhaps we're starting an aero-club around here!

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Syma Freak
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October 15, 2011 - 1:15 pm
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@Norber I believe all work places should have a Syma 107 to fly on breaks for like a meditation and bloody good laugh-the real pleasure one gets from a $20 heli is amazing-Good on you Wink

"Fly like a butterfly sting like a Syma" http://syma107.com

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