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Ive been looking at making a quad copter for a while. So I have started to make one out of 4 S107's
Thanks to CPD's suggestion that the tail booms are the strongest part of the helli, i have made a frame based on that.
This thread can hopefully show the progress of the build.
All that is needed now is a good frame design. From the idea that the tail booms are one of the strongest parts, i am starting to design a frame where a 3mm X 200mm rod is connected between two of the helicopters where the tail boom used to be, and brazing the second pair perpendicular to them.
Here's a very rough draft of what the fame may look like.
The basic frame was made, for a proof of concept.
A simple pole (drilled and notched), with a S107 carcass fitted at both ends.
The motors and props were switched between 2 of the helicopters, so that both blades spun either clockwise or anti-clockwise.
The quad copter starts to come together.
Using a large (800X800X12mm) block of pine to align the poles perpendicular to each other, and to support the electronics.
However the frame requires the thrust of 2 S107's to balance its weight out, so still needs some improvement.
The motors connected in parallel, require ~1.2 Amps per carcass so need a 3.7 battery capable of supplying ~10amps
Trying to design the onboard electronics to run from 3.7v is causing some problems.
Removed the wood, and brazed the copper tubes together.
Added side support bars, to improve durability of the frame.
Made a support shelf for the electronics out of Perspex
It may require 2 1S li-po packs connected in parallel to provide enough current :/
(Waiting for a delivery of kynar wire to lighten up the electronics.)
Edit: Eureka, Solved the under voltage problem. by connecting the motors in series, rather than parallel it they can take double the voltage. So I can now use a 2S pack, and simplify the electronics 🙂
The board is now bolted to the frame, and sits quite nicely. However the bolts need trimming down
Running two motors in series from a 2S battery seems to be giving more thrust.
Added the base plastic from the S107 to form feet, and protect the gears on landing.
After realizing that there is a reason why quad copters don't have fly bars for a reason,
I started looking for a simple solution, that wasn't glue.
By removing the flybar completely, and pinning the rods to the central column, keeps the blades nice and steady
(and it also reduces the mass ). However it does reduce the slack in the blades, and ended up destroying yet another cog
Raptor-just amazing photos and advice-guess not many game to do it-guess what just dusted off some 16 helis in a box-they are going to have a new life!!
Guys.had a guy at the park with his quad that took a few minutes video of myself and my friend flying our planes.the rest of the video shows him flying fpv-I love this fpv idea-should I open a section for this on the forum,or am I going off the track here?
For some reason getting a problem showing this video from Vimeo,need to work out the problem..seems to be iframe problem
I see what you mean about embedding Vimeo :/
Unable to save
This post contains an iframe which are disallowed
the most likely reason for this can be found here http://wordpress.org/support/t.....l-wp-sites
That guy branded his video "openpilot", Is he by any chance part of the open pilot team, if he is that would be ideal for a contact.
That's a fantastic video, hopefully i could do that someday, its a much cheaper and safer way of flying than getting a pilots license and a 2 seat plane.
As for starting a Quad copter section, it depends on how long it will be before the new multi-rotor site is up and running.
I believe he is on open pilot but not on the team.will check with him this weekend as I am going to Tania park to see him fly his quad and maybe weather ok through my glider out to sea.
Yes there is a problem with iframe embedding.not easy to fix but working with simplepress to change that.
Some minor changes to the layout of the ESC, and the efficiency of the program it runs.
It may still need a safety, but i think the KKControllBoard can handle that.
Picbasic code for 12F683 (simplified)
IN var Byte
OUT var Byte
Pulsin 1,1,IN 'Measure pulse on Pin 1 (between 100 & 200 )
IN = (IN MIN 200) MAX 100 'Keep pulse within 1-2ms limits
OUT = ((IN - 100)*255)/100 'calculate percentage in Hex
IF OUT > 245 THEN OUT = 255 'set upper limit, dead-zone.
IF OUT < 20 THEN OUT = 0 'set lower limit, dead-zone.
HPWM 1,OUT,1000 'output PWM on pin 2
GOTO Mainloop 'forever
Edit: Interestingly, the ESC seems to run just as well on 3.7V, as it does on a 7.4v pack.
Woo, Ive finished all of the electronics. Tweaked the code until i was happy it would give reasonable full power, and a bit extra for pitch and roll.
I did my first test flight today, and it barely lifted off the ground
So thinking it was a fault with the electronics, I fiddled a bit, and then fiddled some more.
Finally after checking EVERY wire, it crossed my mind to see how heavy it was, it turned out to be 170g (without a battery)
I think it needs to go on a diet
Back to the drawing board for the frame then 🙁
I will probably try it with aluminum tube next
Well, I guess I'll chip in a little more...
(found by a guy on the rav4 forums that wanted to make some custom work for his rav)
My dad made millitary helmets for a living for about 8 years, (until his job was sold off) and according to both him and verything else I've read/heard, the strength comes from the hardened resins, not the material itself, and you really can use anything to have strength, just not for balistics quality... that requires kevlar. I would assume the same would be true of carbon fibre.
If you asked me, I would layer one layer with the grain going one way, then layer one layer up one side, down the bottom, and back up the other. Then annother down one of the other two sides, across the bottom and up the other, then once more around the sides, with the seam in a different spot, and continue for more layers. Just remember to have the "grain" of the cloth going opposit for each layer for more strength.
I'd also use a scrap peice of wood cut to the right shape and covered with wax paper, then maybe mold release or something as a die. Then, just use a heat gun to cure it, and pull it off of the die.
If it's still too heavy, just drill some holes in it in some places very carefully and with a sharp drill so you don't fray it out.
yes, they do have a greater pitch, and do give more thrust.
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