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Hi folks - my son is loving the S107!
We have a replacement parts kit - bought with the S107 on Amazon (bought a few years ago so don't remember the vendor - but at the time it was reviewed to be genuine parts, etc.)
Original blades are getting chewed up so figured I'd replace the blades soon. I noticed the original blades are labeled with "1" for the top blades and "4" on the lower. However - the replacement blades are labeled "2A" and "2B". AND - they seem to be ever so slightly thicker as once screwed in they don't swing loosely as the originals.
Are these the correct replacement blades?
Brad in MA
The answer is yes and no. Yes, they are 100% legit Syma blades, correct for the S107. However, no, they are not the correct blades for your s107, however they will have to do.
If your S107 is a couple years old like mine, then it has the first gen of blades. Since then, they've re-designed the blades once or twice, making them shorter, wider, and thicker. The advantages are they're less prone to breakage, more efficient, and don't take up as much space so they hit less stuff. (The angled tip on the end also makes them barely hit on the very tip, rather than hit with a large, flat surface--giving them less of a shock when they hit, and reducing the effects of a hit)
The thing is, there's at least two types--the real replacement blades, and an oddball that I picked up last year. I don't know if the ones I have were for a different heli, but printed like and sold as 107 blades or what, but there's the regular s107 blades, the old ones, and a kind that has a sharp angle on the end and is very wide. Then, we need to decide whether the solution includes getting different blades, (The VERY angled ones suck, and will cause insane crashes) or filing down the area around the holes and trying them out.
I guess first things first, you take a file or sandpaper, and try to evenly make the area around the hole thinner, working from the bottom. BUT only just enough that they will slip around freely, and on only one blade to start. Then, take the blade and eyeball how much needs taken off of the others, if not tracing a line to be removed with a knife or pen-line sharpie. Make sure they all work, and are as even and flat as possible--this will eliminate or cause balance issues, and allow proper alignment, however there still needs to be enough material that the blades do not break off. Counter-intuitively, I suggest working from the bottom of the blade, because they ride up, and not down, so the most critically flat edge is on top.
One final tip so that you do not have to do it again, at least not for a while, take out the really bad "invisible" tape that is basically sticky sheet plastic, and not good for anything else. Everybody has this garbage floating around, and it's never been good for anything, except sitting in a drawer with all of the thumb tacks and dead batteries from 1998, except for one thing. The thick plastic, (which is by no means invisible) works GREAT to protect the edges of blades. Evenly cut it to the point where the blade thickens to form the mounting hole, (I suggest using scissors) then put it over the leading edge of the blades, with the center of the tape along the edge, and lay it over the blade, making sure there's no air bubbles. What happens is the tape takes the brunt of the beating, getting ripped up, and absorbing at least some of the impact, and the blades last a LOT longer. Properly done, this does not affect performance, and can save some time and money in the long run.
Hope this mini book helps!
CPD, The mini book is great, thank you.
"Fly like a butterfly sting like a Syma" http://syma107.com
thanks so much - this is helpful!
I wonder - if the "new" style blades are a bit thicker - then perhaps I should just get a new rotor mount (sorry not sure what it's called, but the piece that sits atop the shaft - what the blades actually attach to).
I assume a new rotor mount would correspond to the new, thicker blades, and that it would fit on the existing "old" shaft.
This way I would avoid shaving down the blades and risking imbalance (not to mention the work to do so).
Does that make sense?
Does make sense. Tad expensive, as you'll probably want to also get a new balance bar for it, but that's still not bad. Only thing is that you may not get a new style one in the mail. Blades run out long before the rest of the parts do, and you may find yourself with an exact same part. Worth looking into, though.
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