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The canopy's I have bought do not come with those white spacers,in the beginning of buying Syma helis I made my own spacers from say you have a silicone tube,I just bought more adapters the silicone squirts from and cut to the size wanted as they were hollow.I will have a look to find them for you-the greatest concept is as you buy a few more helis I now have heaps of spares-
As also fly planes one is always thinking out side the square for repair products.Found on local clean up a box of plumbing stuff,in there were small o rings just the right size to attach props to motor-what I am saying is as you may know lot of free stuff to use for repairs-sorry went on a bit,guess always looking for a cheap repair as fun to do!!
I'm sure some craft store'd have beads exactly (or close enough) like these, but they might be expensive. If you need to, you might need two, or something.
I'd look around for plastic waumpum-style (I know that's not spelled right) beads.
Hey that is a good idea using beads,never thought of that one- good one!
Unfortunately it is not a simple spacer that you see there. In the image the part on the right side of the break is attached to the metal frame and the part to the left of the break is attached to the plastic head cover. I absolutely hate this aspect of the design. If you were to find a screw that is about 3-4 times the length of what is provided, you could drill a new hole in the head cover (about 1/4 inch to the right of the screw seen in the photo) and use a bead as a spacer. But then you wouldn't even need a bead if you just drilled out the piece to the left of the break.
Ohhhhhhhh... the little stupid "h" shaped thing...
Yeah, bead won't work. Personally, I like the design on some of the double horses where there's a peg, and the cover pops on and off, not screws on/off. Not as crash-worthy, but it would help disapate some crash forces, and is a heck of a lot easier to take the cover off/put it on.
There's probably a way to make one, but all I can think of is either resin-molding, or hot glue. (maybe add hot glue progessivelly around the screw and make sure you make it large enough to be strong, and get it in the hole that holds the thing from turning.)
I'm running low on hotglue, and I have annother project that needs it, but I might try for the fun of it sometime. It'd be crude, but if you do it right, it should work. I would put something like waxpaper on anything you don't want glued, and some beeswax or something on the screw. Then, it SHOULD be able to be unscrewed once cooled. The other advantage would be then you have the exact right hole length for the screw, and you have a more forgiving mount in a crash-not as stiff and ready to break.
I'd still find an extra screw to test it with, though.
Wait... The other option is to convert it to the DH "peg" design-take a VERY long screw from radio shak or wherever sells micro-screws for electronics, and put it in, and cut the head off, then maybe round over the threads and secure with lok-tight or other stuff like that. Then, it is just pop-on, pop-off, you just have to be carefull around curtains. (maybe round the edge too? just as long as you don't unscrew it)
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