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I have three S107 (one for Christmas, the second was my son's but he broke it and gave it to me, third was bought from China on Ebay). All three look to be the genuine items.
The last one has controller settings which are different to the other two. Not just channel but it is as though the carrier frequency is different. The controller is not interchangeable with the other two. This copter is very sensitive to low-energy light bulbs and wil drop like a stone if near one. Daytime ok, night unusable.
Also I have suffered problems with toilet bowl effect which are due, apparently, to stiffness in the top rotor set. This has come about through rebuilding and also a component which I dont think was genuine and so was binding slightly. Despite several strip downs and rebuilds I can't get the top rotor set to behave "like new". I have swapped round the set from the latest coptor with the offending set and the problem moves with the rotor, indicating that is where the problem lies. The moral is to may sure that if you are rebuilding top rotors, use genuine parts and be very careful, making sure nothing binds. Mine currently seems ok, but the problem is there, so it aint good enough yet!
(toilet bowl effect: the copter moves in a horizontal circular motion without changing the orientation of the body, just as if your were flushing it down the toilet! In fact it is so annoying the temptation is to do just that)
@ Graeme-"The controller is not interchangeable with the other two." I have had this problem-it generally means it is a fake not a clone- I tell always to be careful buying from Ebay-A lot of sellers are dropshippers and do not care-Spare parts as you mentioned should be genuine-hence I put 3 safe buying places on home page-yes there is a link also to Ebay-please always check out seller or contact me before you buy as know some bad sellers on Ebay,however can not name and shame publicly-just to much drama-Thank you for the post-great info.
"Fly like a butterfly sting like a Syma" http://syma107.com
That was my original thought. However, everything (bar one item) looks exactly the same as the two others I have, even the printed circuit board markings. The recharge socket is correct, as are the markings on the rotor. The only thing slightly different is the moulding of the undertray below the pcb.
It flies as well as the other two... slightly slower but I have heard that is down to circuit board revision. I can't understadn why they would go to the trouble to be spot on with details but get the controller frequency wrong.
BTW one contributing factor to TBE seems to be excess play on the hinge points on the top rotor blades themselves. I found that tightening these up so the rotor hinges freely but without a lot of float improves things.
I have two S107s that fly off the same Tx. Then I have a 3rd one that only works with its own Tx.
#3 also looks genuine except that it has a red/green/blue front LED similar to that used in other small Syma heli models and the main blades don't have the small molded-in A1, B2 numbers at the "root" of the blade (near the screw hole).
Sometimes I think #3 was a rebuilt S107 using parts and Tx off another Syma heli, but it may be counterfeit. It flies just like my others though. The bottom of the tailfin snapped off so it may be using more brittle plastic too.
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