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Crashed S107G spins on it's axis
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azhag
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June 14, 2012 - 4:24 am

Raptor said
After reading all of the details you have put down so far, and everything you have checked.

The only answer to what is causing your problems, is the gyroscope being damaged.

Thats's what I was afraid of.

 

About a new motherboard, as:

a) a spare motherboard would cost me about a half of brand new S107G,

b) replacing motherboard is probably a bit tricky to someone who's not a Solder Ninja (which is the case to me),

c) I don't know if my S107G would fly well with a new motherboard

I think I'll rather buy a new S107G and keep the broken one as a donor.

 

Anyway, thanks everyone for your help! 

PS Happy 100 posts Raptor 😉

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CPD
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June 14, 2012 - 2:31 am

All I can say then is try to find a matching motherboard, which might be hard to do, since most of the replacements off of amazon are fakes, and not compatable with the real remotes. I wouldn't be suprised if it's broke somewhere, even if it isn't the gyro, something on the board's broke. Could be the gyro, or whatever the part is that actually gives each engine its power.

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Raptor
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June 14, 2012 - 2:00 am

After reading all of the details you have put down so far, and everything you have checked.

The only answer to what is causing your problems, is the gyroscope being damaged.

 

The gyroscopes are not designed to take any impact, so i believe that it has been damaged in the crash.

The output voltage (according to the data sheet) should be 1.35v when stationary, and change +/- 0.000067V for every degree turned per second. I.e. you rotate clockwise and the voltage goes up, you turn it counter-clockwise and the voltage goes down.

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azhag
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June 14, 2012 - 12:30 am

Gears are fine -- no slips, no missing teeth. That was my third shot, after rotor head and shaft (it doesn't look bend).

I don't know how to tell if motor is dying (tried to check voltage on both motors last night, but there is not enough space for multimeter), but I don't think so -- if that was true it would spin to one side at hovering of course, but wouldn't (according to my logic) spin very fast to opposite side when rotating to that side with remote. My S107G seems genuine (right box, right motor colors, right circuit board etc.).

Trim is not an issue, in fact can't tell the difference between trim full to the left and full to the right at the moment. 🙂

Balance bar seems fine too. 

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CPD
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June 14, 2012 - 12:02 am

That's one of the oddities with this--the normal stuff seems to be about eliminated, but still a possability anyway with how it's working.

 

I wouldn't say that one motor would be dead dead, just dying dead. It may be that one motor isn't spinning as fast because of either a wiring issue, or the motor might be dying, although not dead yet.

 

That almost leads me more to think, however, by it possable being the motor, that it's more likely NOT the motor, and instead either the gears have missing teeth, are slipping, or are falling, but except for a tooth-for-tooth inspection, he looked at those and saw nothing.

 

Just thinking of something random... did you check the balance bar? Could be a case of either no weight or too much weight in it, and not enough or too much rotational force/torque comming from that set because of that.

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bvc
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June 13, 2012 - 11:31 pm

Should not be a motor, unless protection mode isn't working.

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CPD
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June 13, 2012 - 10:29 pm

Here's my guesses--sluggish motor, (Is it maybe a fake--this is very common in fakes to have one motor blow out or almost blow out) broken teeth or tooth on a gear, (very tiny and could be insanly hard to spot) slipping gear. (checked for, and not there, correct?) If not anything there, my Raptor solution would be to check that the remote isn't messing with you by having it either full trimed the one way with the nob not turned there, (probably not the case with that much spin) or that the remote has a quirk telling it to spin that fast the one direction.

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azhag
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June 13, 2012 - 4:48 pm

That was my first shot. And since the crash I already stripped down the head a few times -- screws are tightened.

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bvc
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June 13, 2012 - 7:54 am

Check the rotor head again and make sure the screws that hold it on the main shaft actually tighten down and that one is tightened down onto the flat part of the main shaft. My S800 did a very similar thing and it turned out the screws could not be tightened because where the screws went in the rotor head were cracked. I super glued them shut and it works.

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azhag
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June 12, 2012 - 8:02 pm

azhag said
Later I'll try to make a video of how my helicopter flies.

Here it is: 

First it spins moderately to the left while hovering. Then when I pushed stick to the lef it started to spin to the left very fast and dropped down, and when I pushed stick to the right it started to spin very fast to the right and dropped down again. 

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azhag
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June 12, 2012 - 5:36 pm

It turns both left and right.

Later I'll try to make a video of how my helicopter flies.

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Raptor
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June 12, 2012 - 7:38 am

In that case, i don't think its the gyro that's at fault then.

 

try holding the helicopter firmly in your hand, and give it full throttle.

push the steering stick to the left. you should be able to feel the helicopter trying to turn left.

try it again while pushing the stick right.

 

if you cant feel it trying to turn in either direction, it could be an issue with the motors.

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azhag
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June 12, 2012 - 7:16 am

Close enough: 1.31V.

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Raptor
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June 12, 2012 - 7:02 am

Image Enlarger

Try testing to see if there is any voltage between these 2points.

It should be 1.33v

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azhag
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June 12, 2012 - 6:52 am

Raptor said
 

However, I will have a look into what else could be causing the problem.

 

Thanks a lot, I appreciate that.

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Raptor
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Guests
June 12, 2012 - 6:48 am

In that case your gyroscope is fine.

I'm not sure what else could be causing the spin then.

 

However, I will have a look into what else could be causing the problem.

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azhag
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June 12, 2012 - 6:44 am

I've got 3.46V on top pin and 1.33V on bottom pin, so it's other way around. But at least it isn't 0V. 🙂

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Raptor
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June 12, 2012 - 6:32 am

do you have a voltage tester/multimeter?

 

Image Enlarger

if so check the voltages between the small solder points (left of the image) and the large solder point (right of the image).

Turn on the helicopter,

check the voltage between the top left pin and the right pin should be about 1.3v

check the voltage between the bottom left pin and the right pin should be about 3V

 

if either pin shows as 0V, then that would be the source of the problem.

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azhag
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Guests
June 12, 2012 - 6:18 am

Thanks.

 

Unfortunately that didn't helped. 🙁 

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Raptor
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June 12, 2012 - 5:49 am

the gyroscope is the little board that sticks up at the front of the helicopter.

the impact, could have caused any one of the solder points to have broken, so i would suggest that you heat up all 3 of the blobs within the blue circle.

Image Enlarger

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