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Super glue can give you a lot of grief,you could try hot gun glue,however to be honest it is better to repair with no glue-helis are not like foam or balsa wood planes,many moving parts that if super glue hits you have a problem.
"Fly like a butterfly sting like a Syma" http://syma107.com
You'd want to be able to remove them if they need to be replaced.
I don't know about superglue. I might use rubber cement, but superglue is a bit extreme.
To keep the motors in place, I just used a dab of superglue on each one. Quick, easy & light!
bvc said:
May not be so easy next time.
It won't be. I ended up making plastic side plates for the S107 Superleggera, and those side plates have tabs that I taped together over the tops of the motors to hold them in. I was having trouble keeping them in place.
CPD said:
The only major problem I can see is that when I took all of the frames off of my red one, and swapped the motors, (don't ask) the motors started poping out because they are held in with the inner frame.
This finally happened tonight to both motors. I smacked it very hard on the top of the nose of the canopy. I just popped them back in. May not be so easy next time.
drewdane said:
I present the S107 Superleggera! I got a full 10 minutes of continuous flying out of this heli, with a dying battery that is only good for about 4. :p
Edit: The best part is that it only took about 20-30 minutes to charge.
Looks like a sheep with an overhead cooling fan 
I present the S107 Superleggera! I got a full 10 minutes of continuous flying out of this heli, with a dying battery that is only good for about 4. :p
Edit: The best part is that it only took about 20-30 minutes to charge.
That's a good way to use many of these speed mods.
If you have a big battery, but reduce the rest of the weight, as long as you re-balance it, it'll boost performance significantly.
The key thing is keeping it balanced. If you take off too much rear weight, then it'll really get screwey
I removed the inner frame plates from my 107 tonight, and it increased my speed significantly... Maybe too much. However, my battery is losing life, so I think I'm going to leave them out to A: increase uptime and B: compensate for the weight gain from the bigger replaceable batteries I'll be using, when I get around to it. 
1) I've noticed that not ALL S107Gs have the weight in the nose.
2) a- Objectively, removing the parts DOES enhance performance (i.e., increased speed & agility & also prolonged fly time).
b- Subjectively, I actually think it gives the craft a cleaner look...
4) The piece is probably only a 1/2 gram... but the weight savings add up!!!
JetsetJoey said:
1) Remove the metal weight from the nose
Didn't know there was one. Where is it hidding?
2) Remove the Tail Boom Struts & also the vertical support & all related hardware.
I think it makes it look like something other than a heli. Don't know what, but I just don't like it.
4) Snap the u-shaped piece of black plastic located at the very front of the heli (that the battery sits on), & then move the battery back 1/4" & secure it behind the wires.
Since I leave everything in the back, this would cause the copter to drift backwards, wouldn't it?
This oneCPD said:
My problem w. these speed modes, and I've done them, is that then you crash and burn more often. I made the lower frame out of plastic, and I kinda like it, but it's not that good because then its too fast.
That said, I'll see about this specific one, but I'm not sure about the results.
The only major problem I can see is that when I took all of the frames off of my red one, and swapped the motors, (don't ask) the motors started poping out because they are held in with the inner frame.
This one doesn't yield much speed. So little you won't even notice a difference. At least I didn't. "It is more responsive when maneuvering and easier to maneuver."
I was concerned about the motors coming out too, but I have pulled on and tried to wiggle them and they didn't budge. Are they just pressed down in there? Looks to me like a little wire would hold them down? I imagine sooner or later I'll wreck enough and hit it just right for the motors to pop out but….so far so good.
My problem w. these speed modes, and I've done them, is that then you crash and burn more often. I made the lower frame out of plastic, and I kinda like it, but it's not that good because then its too fast.
That said, I'll see about this specific one, but I'm not sure about the results.
The only major problem I can see is that when I took all of the frames off of my red one, and swapped the motors, (don't ask) the motors started poping out because they are held in with the inner frame.
I've done this mod with practically every S107G I've bought (about 10) & sold/given to friends & family.
OTHER weight-savings tips/mods are:
1) Remove the metal weight from the nose
2) Remove the Tail Boom Struts & also the vertical support & all related hardware.
3) Remove ALL the plastic bushings/sleeves interconnecting the guts/body/chassis.
4) Snap the u-shaped piece of black plastic located at the very front of the heli (that the battery sits on), & then move the battery back 1/4" & secure it behind the wires.
5) Of course the 2 metal inner structure plates, as stated for this topic thread!!!
OK. I've done this. It is more responsive when maneuvering and easier to maneuver. Since it reduces weight is also adds to flight time, but I also cut off the lights, so that obviously contributed to the increase. I didn't time the difference. It's just as stable in flight, and removing them didn't effect balance at all. Downside is it doesn't look as good with the inner side plates off, but.....
From another forum.
quote
taking the inner al. chassis plates off the S107 saves about 2.5g and doesn't seem to affect the structural rigidity much if at all.
Definitely quieter with much improved throttle response!
end quote
If you go to his channel and watch the video before this one you can see the mod much better. Looks to me like it would effect the strength. Has anyone here done this?
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